Bukharian Pastries

Flavors from my grandfather's childhood...

I recently had a chance to spend a lot of time with my grandfather, Saba Yuda, and it was absolutely incredible to hear the stories of his life and early adult years spent raising a family, building a business, and fostering timeless flavors from his childhood. I can’t stress it enough; this man is almost 90 and still cooks up a storm, making incredible Bukharian treats like samsa and bishak every weekend, in addition to his iconic chopped salad!

He recently made me these pastries, and I just had to remake them for you all. It is pretty incredible how good your kitchen smells afterward, which leads me to the theme of today’s newsletter: Bukharian Pastries!

Today: Bukharian Pastries!

History & Origin: The Bukharians & Their Cuisine

"Bukhara. Arg". 1929. Oil on canvas. 37.5x49.5 cm by Lev Leonardovich Bure (1887-1943) State Museum of History of Culture of Uzbekistan in Samarkand

Bukharian Jews are an ancient Jewish community from Central Asia, particularly from the region around Bukhara, now part of Uzbekistan. They have a rich history dating back over two millennia, with a unique culture influenced by Persian, Turkish, and Central Asian elements. Traditionally involved in commerce and crafts like silk production, many migrated to other parts of Eastern Europe in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Today, Bukharian Jews are dispersed worldwide, with significant populations in Israel, the United States (especially New York City), and Europe, preserving their cultural heritage through language, cuisine, and religious practices.

Now for the cuisine…it is delightfully specific and quite recogonizable, once you know what you are looking for!

Use of Staple Ingredients: Bukharian cuisine relies heavily on staple ingredients such as rice, lamb, beef, and vegetables. Rice is a central component of many dishes, often served pilaf-style with meat and spices.

Spices and Flavors: Bukharian dishes are known for their bold and aromatic flavors, achieved through the use of spices such as cumin, coriander, paprika, and turmeric. These spices add depth and complexity to traditional dishes.

Samsas hold a very special place in my heart. I have countless fond memories of enjoying them while growing up. As a child, my family and I would visit my grandparents every weekend. My grandfather hails from Bukhara, a region in Uzbekistan renowned for its delightful cuisine. Even before becoming a baker, my favorite dish of Uzbek origin was Samsa. Think of it as the Uzbek version of an empanada.

Samsa is a pastry filled with beef, onions, and spices. To elevate it, I opted to use boneless short rib for the beef, and let me tell you—it's irresistible. I devoured half the batch immediately; I simply couldn't resist. The unique spice blend, featuring cumin, caraway, nigella seeds, and black pepper, complements the beef perfectly. The onions in the filling release their juices, creating a luscious interior for the samsa while also generating steam to puff up the pastry into a beautiful pocket. It's much simpler to make than it appears, and once you try it, you'll find yourself reaching for this meat-stuffed pastry again and again.

Bishak (Bukharian Pumpkin Pastry)

In theme with today’s Bukharian Pastry edition, I have something special for you all - Bishak, a Bukharian Baked Pumpkin Pastry. These savory baked pumpkin pastries, known as kadoo bishak, are a specialty and are perfect to serve for a weekend snack. They are also excellent to make ahead of time and reheat on a working day for a quick and light lunch. Soft dough filled with pumpkin, onion, garlic, and spices. You can’t go wrong.